Double Ascent of Highwood Pass
A car-free wild mountain road if you ride before the Spring opening
Getting to the North Gate from Calgary takes about 90 minutes but the last part on Highway 40 through Kananaskis is very scenic with majestic, young mountains thrusting into the sky on both sides of the road, so the drive is never boring. As you reach the Kananaskis golf course, a portable info-board warns you that there is no cell service beyond this point, something to consider if you are linking your car GPS to your phone. Your bike computer will work fine as it connects directly to the satellites.
Highway 40 in Alberta is one of the last of the high mountain roads to re-open in Spring. For a short period, in early June, it is possible to ride between the two winter gates on a closed road. Most riders climb to the Highwood Pass from one of the winter gates and then head straight back down the way they came. If you have the stamina, and the time, it’s quite an adventure to ride between the two gates and go over the pass in both directions.
You can’t really get lost here as, in early June, you are driving till the road is barred. Some riders abandon their cars on the roadside here though you could park at the parking lot for the Pocaterra Hut. Riding from this lot adds another two kilometres and some climbing to the day, but if that seems too much you probably shouldn’t be attempting an ascent (or double ascent) to 2200m.
If you set off early, the temperature is likely below 10⁰C at gate level and even colder at the Pass so dress well and be prepared for changeable weather. I wore a long-sleeved vest under my wind jacket that has deep pockets which I needed for my food and a third bidon. I like to fit a 2-litre top tube bag for longer rides that gives space for more food and my rain jacket. While I opted to wear shorts, I used waterproof covers on my shoes as there is often snow melt on the road near the Pass.
“Within two hundred metres of the barrier, I saw the first grizzly “
When you reach the winter barrier you’ll find it accompanied by a polite sign explaining that the road is closed to allow animals to forage while their food supplies become better established after winter. Another sign, suggests that cyclists riding to Highwood Pass before the gate opens should stay in groups.
Within two hundred metres of the barrier, I saw the first grizzly so the warning is valid. The bear was 50 metres downslope from me on the other side crash barrier. It was busy eating dandelions in an open, grassy area and showed no interest in me and I kept going not wishing attract its attention. Both of us cautiously watched the other out of the corner of our eyes and carried on what we were doing.
The gradient the first stretch is gentle, with a green forested wall on your left and an end-on view of Mount Pocaterra drawing you forward. If you could keep going in a straight line, you would find yourself astride the Alberta-BC provincial border but the highway jinks east and the border runs along the ridge to your right.
There is normally snow on the upper reaches though the road is cleared. Eventually, you reach the highest paved pass in Canada at 2206m and, hopefully the sun will have risen to make up for the drop in temperature. On weekdays, you may find yourself alone but the snow around the Highwood Pass sign will be packed down by numerous previous riders wishing to capture their image at the high point.
You can turn around at this point and speed back down to the north gate or set off for south winter gate that is 80m lower. Continuing south, the descent south is steep and fast initially but the gradient eases and you can glide for almost 20km before some pedalling is required. You need 2½ to 3½ hours to reach the southern gate, less on an e-bike.
As there are no conveniences or refreshment stops on this route you will need to be self-supporting unless the Highwood House General Store at the southern gate reopens before the gate reopens. You are likely to find cars parked up here even in midweek now that electric bikes make this climb accessible for older riders.
After a break, you will need to squeeze around the gate and start back up the road. Because this ride takes so long, the weather which may have been fine when you set off can change with mountain clouds building up in the afternoon. You puff your way back up to the Pass and really feel the last, steeper, section but the grade is never more that 10% as it was constructed for mid-20th century motor vehicles.
When it is raining at the pass, you may find drier weather and roads lower down on your descent northwards. Even this late in the ride, when several other riders have already climbed to the Pass, you may still come across bears on your way back. The other prominent mammals are the Bighorn sheep that graze the newly-sprouted grass at the roadside.
The full distance from the Pocaterra Hut is 114km with 1,675m of ascent and will take you 5 to 7 hours of cycling time, plus any stopping time so it is a big day out. The single ascent and return from/to the north will naturally take around half his time and effort!
